Don't Spend Your Holiday Weekend at the Vet

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving Day. Who isn't looking forward to great food shared with great friends and family? Well unless you want to spend Thanksgiving night or Black Friday in the vet's office or emergency clinic, you should be cautious before letting your four-legged family members join in the feast.

Every year, dogs and cats end up in the vet for post-Turkey day problems.

• Foods that are fatty and high in sodium like turkey (especially the skin) and ham can wreak havoc on the digestive system of a dog. Vomiting and diarrhea can be signs of pancreatitis, which can become very serious and costly to treat in severe cases.
  
• Avoid feeding any bones to your pets. These can become lodged in the esophagus, splinter and perforate the GI tract, or cause a blockage in the intestines which may require surgery.
  
• Grapes and raisins found on hors 'douevres platters and in stuffing and desserts can cause kidney failure in pets and should not be given.
  
• Also watch for pets getting into the trash for tasty morsels and packaging which can cause intestinal blockages.
  
• Look for signs that your pet is stressed by the visitors to your home. A houseful of unfamiliar people, small children, or visiting pets can make even the most well-adjusted pet anxious, afraid or even aggressive, especially when there is a large amount of food nearby. You certainly don't want your dog or a family member to spend the holiday in the ER because of a dog fight.
  

It is great to have pets around us at the holidays. They are part of our lives, and part of our families. Be thankful that they are able to share in your family's joy this holiday season. Exercise self control when your pup is begging for scraps on Thanksgiving. Remember that your dog doesn't understand that eating a whole plate of turkey giblets is not good for him, so it is up to you to keep them safe.

If anything doe happen, we'll be here Thanksgiving Day, and all through the weekend if you need us. Here's to you and yours having a safe, healthy, and happy Thanksgiving, free of trips to the vet's office.

CCVSS ADDS PRIVATE ROOM FOR CLIENTS TO STAY WITH THEIR PETS

Human-animal bond can prove beneficial for recovery

of a pet who is seriously ill or injured.

SARASOTA, Fla., Nov. 10, 2011 – Critical Care & Veterinary Specialists of Sarasota LLC (CCVSS), which provides advanced intensive-care-unit and emergency veterinary medicine, has added a private room for clients who wish to stay overnight with their pet.

“We recognize the very powerful bond between our clients and their pets and wanted to give pet owners the option to stay with their pet as long as it is possible to do without compromising medical care,” said Dr. Anne Chauvet, a veterinary neurologist and founder of CCVSS. “Pets have become family members, and we want to honor that. Having a pet’s owner present can calm the pet and help with recovery in some circumstances.”

The room is equipped with a lounge chair that converts to a bed as well as a bed/rest area for the patient. Clients may bring a computer and have access to the Internet. Video monitoring allows veterinarians and staff to observe the patient, and the room is connected by telephone to the intensive care unit for assistance if needed. Charges for use of the room are based on the clinic’s out-of-pocket costs only and are determined by the degree of monitoring and individualized care needed. More information is available by calling 941-929-1818 or online at www.criticalvetcare.com.

First Aid Kit for Pets

It is just as important to have a first aid kit prepared and available for our pets as it is when one of our family members or guests gets hurt. Our family emergency kit does not always contain what is needed for pets, which have different requirements for medication and handling. Here is a list of the items that should be in a pet first aid kit. Keep in mind all treatments and medications should be given in consultation with a veterinarian. For questions, contact us at (941)929-1818 or petneuro@gmail.com

• Telephone numbers for your vet, veterinary specialists and emergency clinic.
• Gauze sponges. They do not have to be sterile. You can also use a very clean white, 100percent cotton T-shirt cut into strips
• Gauze and/or string – can be used to tie splints or muzzle, tie beaks
• A muzzle or two and leashes – never assume your ordinarily gentle pet will not bite you if hurting. Never muzzle if animal is vomiting or having seizures
• Activated charcoal – in case a poisonous substance is absorbed. Also milk of magnesia
• Triple antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin®
• Rubbing alcohol – best antiseptic. It stings, so watch your pet’s reaction
• Syringes: 5 cc, 12 cc and 20 cc
• Ace bandage, self-adhesive and non self-adhesive
• Petroleum jelly – this is good to protect wounds from dirt
• Sterile non adherent pads
• Pepto-Bismol™ tablets
• Pepcid® AC tablets
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Table salt
• Benadryl® capsules
• Eye flush
• Coated aspirin
• Medical tape and duct tape
• Bandage scissors
• Splints, wood pieces and tongue depressors – if possible stabilize injuries prior to moving.
• A carrier is a very good investment for smaller animals. Sometimes a board may beneeded to immobilize a larger dog – use duct tape
• Vet wrap (stretch self stick) bandage
• Blankets
• Tweezers
• Nail clippers
• Pliers (to remove large objects or cut wires)
• Hemostats to stop bleeding
• Rectal thermometer
• Plastic zipper bags
  

The Natural Wag!

Don't miss Dr. Anne Chauvet at The Natural Wag! this Saturday!
She will be speaking about "Brain Food for Your Dog" at 10:15am. Bring your whole down and check it out!

Chocolate Toxicity

Chocolate may be America’s favorite flavor. We like chocolate candy, ice cream, chocolate drinks, chocolate cakes, just about anything with chocolate. We may want to share our favorite treat with an eager pet but it is best to think twice and reach for the dog biscuits instead.

Different Types of Chocolate

Everyone who has ever eaten candy knows there are many types of chocolate. The seeds cannot be released from the fruit unless some type of animal actually breaks the fruit open. Ironically, it is the bitter seeds, packed with theobromine and caffeine, which are used to make chocolate. The pods are split, and the seeds are scooped out and left to ferment under banana leaves for about a week. This turns the cacao seeds a rich brown and creates the chocolate flavor we crave. The seeds are then dried out for another week, packed in sacks, and shipped to chocolate manufacturers.

The seeds must be roasted, ground, pressed (which removes the oil of the seed, the “cocoa butter” that is used in sunscreens, white chocolate, and cosmetics, among other things), and tempered to create the exact consistency.

• Chocolate liquor is the liquid that results from grinding the hulled cacao beans.
• Cocoa butter is the fat that is extracted from the chocolate liquor.
• Cocoa powder is the solid that remains after the cocoa butter is removed from the chocolate liquor. The powder can be treated with alkali in a process called “Dutching” or it can be left alone. Note the low-fat nature of cocoa powder, hence its use in low-fat baking.
• Unsweetened chocolate is chocolate liquor that is 50% to 60% cocoa butter
• Semisweet chocolate is chocolate that is 35% chocolate liquor (the rest being sugar, vanilla, or lecithin).
• Milk chocolate is chocolate that is at least 10% chocolate liquor, the rest being milk solids, vanilla or lecithin.

Why Is Chocolate Bad?

Sometimes we eat chocolate plain. Sometimes we eat it baked into cakes, mixed into ice cream, etc. The first problem with these sweets is the fat. A sudden high fat meal (such as demolishing a bag of chocolate bars left accessible at Halloween time) can create a lethal metabolic disease in pets called pancreatitis. Vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are just the beginning of this disaster. Remember, in the case of pancreatitis, it is the fat that causes the problem more than the chocolate itself.

The fat and sugar in the chocolate can create an unpleasant but temporary upset stomach. This is what happens in most chocolate ingestion cases.

Chocolate is, however, directly toxic because of the theobromine. The more chocolate liquor there is in a product, the more theobromine is present. This makes baking chocolate the worst for pets, followed by semisweet and dark chocolate, followed by milk chocolate, followed by chocolate flavored cakes or cookies. Theobromine causes:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Hyperactivity
• Tremors
• Seizures
• Racing heart rhythm progressing to abnormal rhythms
• Death in severe cases

Toxic doses of theobromine are 9 mg per pound of dog for mild signs, up to 18 mg per pound of dog for severe signs. Milk chocolate contains 44 mg / ounce of theobromine while semisweet chocolate contains 150 mg per ounce, and baking chocolate contains 390 mg per ounce.

Toxic Doses:

unsweetened milk chocolate - 45 to 60 mg/oz (2-3 oz/kg)

semisweet or dark chocolate - 130 to 185 mg/oz (~1 oz/kg)

unsweetened (baking) chocolate - 450 mg/oz (1/3 oz /kg)

cocoa powder - 150 to 600 mg/oz (1/4 – 1 oz/kg)

caffeine - 150 mg/kg for dogs, cats, and people

It takes nearly 4 days for the effects of chocolate to work its way out of a dog’s system. If the chocolate was only just eaten, it is possible to induce vomiting; otherwise, hospitalization and support are needed until the chocolate has worked its way out of the system.

Number of OUNCES of CHOCOLATE a Pet Would Need to Ingest for TOXICITY Weight of Pet in Pounds 5 10 15 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Milk Chocolate (ounces) 2 4 6 8.2 10.2 12.3 16.4 20.5 24.5 28.6 32.7 36.8 41 Dark Chocolate (ounces) 0.7 1.4 2.1 2.8 3.5 4.2 5.5 6.9 8.3 9.7 11 12.5 13.8 Baking Chocolate (ounces) 0.23 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.2 1.4 1.9 2.3 2.8 3.2 3.7 4.1 4.6

by Dr. Stacy Armstrong, DVM, DACVECC

Hairballs...Yuck!

Cats groom …. A lot! They have very pointy papillae on their tongues which allows them to do a great grooming job and gives a very raspy feeling to their tongue. That hair is swallowed. If too much hair is swallowed it can get stuck in the stomach in a ball and eventually coughed up or vomited up as a “hairball”. Hairballs look nasty and smell worse.

Most of the time this behavior is just annoying and has no severe consequence. Using some Vaseline on the feet is useful. The cat will lick it off and it helps the hair “slide” down the gastrointestinal tract. Special products are also available from pet stores and veterinary offices as well for this particular problem.

Sometimes, the hairball gets stuck. Although rare, it can block the passage in the bowel and lead to vomiting, and loss of appetite. If the hairball can be removed with an endoscope, it is best. For those hairballs stuck further down, surgery is needed.

So remember to brush your cat to avoid excessive hair and give him Vaseline, olive oil, fish oil or other feline laxative product to help him pass those hairballs. Beauty has its price, but let it not be abdominal surgery!

The Specialists for Animals Foundation has already helped 3 animals this month in Sarasota.

What is the Specialists for Animals Foundation?

SAFI is a non-profit organization that was created in 2009 to help with the cost of specialized veterinary health care for owners of small animals who have demonstrated an inability to pay for such specialized veterinary care. The corporation receives and administers grants and contributions of money or property from individuals, private organizations and public sources. §501(c)(3) was approved by the IRS in May 2011.

These animals had treatable illnesses or injuries, but their owners had exhausted all financial means of paying for their treatment. Without contributions from the SAFI fund, and discounts offered by the veterinary specialists accessing the fund, these patients would likely have been euthanized.

The more the fund is used, the more we need donations to keep this option available to pets in need of specialized care. Please donate if you can by visiting www.petneuro.com/Specialists_for_Animals_Foundation

How does it work?

- patients must have non terminal disorders to be considered.
- The client and specialty clinician must show/prove inadequacy of funds by providing decline from care credit, chase health and credit card processing.
- The veterinary specialist administering the care must apply for the funds and match the donation in discounts to the client dollar for dollar. The estimate will be compared to industry standards.
- No more than 20% of the fund can be distributed per granted request
- Donation will not exceed 50% of the estimate/bill.
- The committee/board will be responsible for the donation.

Any board certified or residency trained (board eligible) veterinary specialist can apply to use this fund.

For donations or more information please contact:

Anne Chauvet at 941-929-1818, or afterhours 941-400-7177 or email at chauveta@aol.com

Don't let your pet get beat by the heat.

With summer in full swing, it is more important than ever to make sure your pet stays cool. Knowing what signs to look for if you think your pet may be overheating could save your pet's life. Emergency and Critical Care specialist Dr Stacy Armstrong discusses heatstroke in this blog update.

Heatstroke is defined as a state of extreme hyperthermia (106-109°F). The hallmark of heatstroke is severe central nervous system disturbance (CNS) and is often associated with multiorgan dysfunction. A more recent definition of heatstroke is that it "is a form of hyperthermia associated with a systemic inflammatory response leading to a syndrome of multiorgan dysfunction in which encephalopathy predominates".

Heat Stroke may be a life-threatening condition, and does require immediate treatment. A dog’s normal body temperature is 100 – 102.5°F, and any time the body temperature is higher than 105°F, a true emergency exists. Heatstroke generally occurs in hot summer weather when dogs are left with inadequate ventilation in hot vehicles. However, heatstroke may also occur ANYTIME, and in conditions, including:

1. When an animal is left outdoors in hot/humid conditions without adequate shade.
2. When exercised (even just walking or going to the park) in hot/humid weather.
3. When left in a car on a relatively cool (70°F) day; a recent study from StanfordUniversity Medical Center found the temperature within a vehicle may increase by anaverage of 40 degrees Fahrenheit within one hour regardless of outside temperature.

Other predisposing factors may be obesity and/or diseases affecting a pet’s airway. Also, brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds (Pekingese, Pug, Lhasa Apso, Boston terrier, Bulldogs, etc.) may suffer from ineffectual panter syndrome that results in an increased body temperature that may be fatal. We also see cases of heat stroke in "inside dogs" that are kept in air conditioning and that are not acclimated to the heat. These dogs go outside and can become overheated in only 10 to 15 minutes. Even vigorous play that is part of a dog's normal routine can lead to heatstroke if the play is prolonged, the pet has an underlying illness, or if the weather is unusually hot.


Signs of Heat Stroke: The following signs may indicate heat stroke in a dog:
• Increased rectal temperature (over 104° requires action, over 106° is a dire emergency)
• Vigorous panting • Dark red gums
• Tacky or dry mucus membranes (specifically the gums)
• Lying down and unwilling (or unable) to get up
• Collapse and/or loss of consciousness
• Thick saliva
• Dizziness or disorientation



What to Do:
• Remove your pet from the environment where the hyperthermia occurred.
• Move your pet to shaded and cool environment, and direct a fan on him/her.
• If possible, determine rectal temperature and record it.
• Transport to the closest veterinary facility immediately.
• Reduction of core body temperature is essential. Owners shouldstart cooling efforts prior to transport to an emergency facility if it is more than a few minutes away. Immerse animal in cool water using either a tub or spraying with a garden hose. Do not use ice water as this causes peripheral vasoconstriction, inhibiting heat loss through convection and radiation. Shivering may also result from the application of ice baths, generating more heat and exacerbating the hyperthermia. A fan can be used to increase cooling by evaporation.



What NOT to Do:
• Do not use cold water or ice for cooling.
• Do not overcool the pet.
• Most pets with hyperthermia have body temperatures greater than 105°F, and a reasonable goal of cooling is to reduce your pet’s body temperature to 102.5-103°F while transporting her to the closest veterinary facility.

Taking quick action if your pet becomes overheated is key to saving its life.

Oleander Toxicosis

by Dr. Stacy Armstrong, DVM, DACVECC

What is it? Which parts are toxic?
Ornamental evergreen shrub with leathery, dark green leaves. The flowers are borne in terminal clusters of dark red, pink, white. All parts of the plant are toxic.

Toxins? Clinical signs?
Dried and fresh leaves are highly toxic because they contain cardiac glycosides. The plant can cause sudden death with vomiting, diarrhea and heart failure. Experimentally, oleander is rapidly absorbed. There are reports of dogs dying after only ingesting a few leaves. More commonly, the toxic signs appear 8-24 hours after exposure.
Signs of poisoning often begin as vomiting or diarrhea. Variable irregular heartbeats, anxiety, dilated pupils (less common), muscle twitching, sweating, obtunded behavior and weakness can also be seen. Clinical signs often worsen over 24 to 48 hours as cardiac glycosides are excreted in bile and reabsorbed via the enterohepatic route. This tends to concentrate circulating toxin and worsen the clinical picture over this time frame.
Some sources report the toxic dose to be ~ 30mg/kg but there are reports of dogs dying from ingesting a small as 1 leaf. Fresh material contains saponins that are irritating to mucosa and are rarely ingested voluntarily. Dried leaves are seemingly more palatable and toxicity is not diminished by drying.

Therapy
If early in exposure, vomiting can be initiated (if appropriate).
Therapy is largely supportive however, repeat dosages of activated charcoal is likely useful because it may block the enterohepatic reabsorption. Specific antidote (DigibindTM) cross reacts with oleander glycosides and allows for excretion of the toxin in urine. Digibind is expensive and is only recommended when the irregular heartbeats (arrhythmias) are not responding to traditional anti-arrhythmic drugs. ECG monitoring and addressing specific arrhythmias as they arise is prudent due to the progressive and variable nature of arrhythmias with this intoxication.
Close monitoring of electrolytes, especially potassium is also important.

Prognosis
Many times, animals poisoned with oleander are found dead. In animals that are found and treated, they may still die within hours to several days. If the animals survive the initial insult, there should not be any long term effects.

If you suspect your pet has ingested this plant, contact Critical Care & Veterinary Specialists of Sarasota, or your local veterinarian right away!

Dogs who eat things they’re not supposed to…and the owners who love them

by Dr. Melissa Claus, DVM, DACVECC

Do you have a dog that eats anything and everything that’s not bolted to the ground? Does your dog eat moldy trash for breakfast, stuffed chew toys for lunch, and cat poop for dinner? If so, you may be wondering if this behavior is dangerous.

Eating inappropriate things is something we vets call “dietary indiscretion”. If your dog ate something that was gross, but completely digestible, he may never have any signs of illness. Some dogs will develop mild gastrointestinal signs, like vomiting once or twice and a day or two of diarrhea. Some dogs will have more severe vomiting, a poor appetite, lethargic behavior, and maybe even bloody diarrhea. If your dog is showing more severe signs, and especially if he is unable to hold down any water he drinks, you should visit your veterinarian immediately, as he is at risk for becoming dehydrated. If your dog seems otherwise normal – normal activity and appetite – you can monitor him at home. It would be best to not offer him any food until it has been a full 12 hours since his last vomiting episode. Always have water or Pedialyte available for him to drink. When you start to feed him, give him small meals of something that is easily digested, like boiled chicken breast or cottage cheese and boiled white rice. Slowly transition him back on to his normal food after 24 hours as long as he is doing well. If he continues to vomit beyond 24 hours, he should be seen by your veterinarian.

Some dogs eat things that are not digestible, like toys, laundry, rocks, corn cobs, and tampons. These dogs are at a much higher risk for requiring emergency veterinary intervention as these non-digestible items are likely to cause an intestinal obstruction. Signs of intestinal blockage often include lethargy, frequent vomiting, absent bowel movements, and poor appetite. If your dog is showing these signs, he should be taken to your veterinarian for evaluation. Rarely, a foreign body can be palpated within the intestinal loops during a physical examination. More often, imaging of the abdomen is required. Radiographs of the abdomen are usually the first test performed to look for changes in the size of the intestinal loops. Loops that are obstructed will become dilated with fluid and gas. Sometimes the dog is fed barium, a liquid that shows up bright white on radiographs. Taking multiple radiographs after barium is fed will allow us to determine if the barium is moving through the intestines or if it is prevented from moving through due to an obstruction. Another method of imaging is an abdominal ultrasound. This method can be very useful to look for dilated intestinal loops and foreign objects. If your dog is determined to have an obstructing foreign body, emergency exploratory surgery will need to be performed to remove the foreign body and relieve the obstruction.

Remember: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! If your dog is a chow hound who has a tendency to eat everything in sight, it is ideal for you to dog-proof your house and yard as thoroughly as possible. Keep laundry, garbage, and easily destroyed toys far away from your eating machine to provide him the best chance of enjoying an exploratory surgery-free life!

Running with Your Dog

With the beautiful weather this time of year, I know I am more inclined to take my dogs running with me. I do take some precautions when I run with my pups and I thought I would pass along some tips to help prevent your need to visit the emergency department here at CCVSS.

As with us, it is a good idea to make sure that your dog can tolerate the stress of running. So a general wellness examination is a good starting point. If your dog has a problem that can or will be exasperated by strenuous activity it is better to catch this before making a preexisting condition worse. Furthermore, if you notice them starting to limp or struggle during the run, STOP! If the lameness persists or gets worse then get your dog checked out by a veterinarian. Don’t treat the lameness with an over the counter medication (or any medication) without the direction of a veterinarian.

Run with your dog restrained by a leash or harness. We don’t want them getting into traffic or tearing off after another animal during your run. You may need to train your dog to run effectively on a leash or attend an obedience class to help with the training.

Gradually ease them into running just as we need to progressively increase our mileage. Usually limiting a well-conditioned dog to no more then 4-5 miles is a sound idea. You will also need to build up their tolerance for running on surfaces such as asphalt. Frequent examination of their footpads is also a good idea since foot pad injuries are common in dogs that run.

Proper feeding and hydration is essential for our canine running companions. Your dog needs to be well hydrated before, during, and after running. Bringing water for you and your dog during a run is a good idea. Some type of water receptacle for your dog to drink out of is handy. As far as timing of meals, feeding a large meal prior to a run is a bad idea. If your dog needs to be fed before a run either skip taking your dog with you on this run or just postpone feeding until afterwards.

Age is another factor to consider. Don’t run with your puppy. Wait until your dog is an adult (9-12 months for smaller breeds; 18 months for giant breeds) so their musculoskeletal system is fully developed. This allows them to better tolerate the stresses of exercise. An older dog will also not likely tolerate a new running routine very well. When introducing your dog to a running program start slowly and gradually build their mileage up as their tolerance allows. Again, regardless of their age, limiting them to no more than 4-5 miles per run is prudent.

Overheating is a potential life-threatening problem associated with running with your dog. Our canine running companions need to be monitored for signs of heat stress and overheating during and after a run. These signs can include weakness, lethargy, collapse, seizures, vomiting, or diarrhea. If you are concerned that your dog is suffering from heat stress, contact a veterinarian as soon as possible. They will likely recommend you wet your dog with water and head to their clinic or local emergency clinic as soon as possible.

Some dog breeds are better suited to be a running companion. You can go for a short jog with most dogs but if you’re looking for a running companion, a bulldog is certainly not the breed to consider. Flat-faced (brachycephalic) breeds and those breeds with abnormally shaped legs (chondrodystrophic) do not make good endurance athletes because of breed associated abnormalities. Go for a Border Collie, a greyhound, or maybe a healthy Labrador retriever or better yet, find a long legged stray at the shelter in need of a permanent running partner. The shelters have tons of hearty so-called "Florida Brown Dogs" that are full of energy and stamina.

With these points in mind, running with your dog can be safe, fun and good for the health and well-being of both you and your canine companion.

Dr. Tim Schneider

Practice Limited to Surgery

Gastrointestinal Foreign Body

by Dr. Tim Schneider

Dogs and cats may eat things that they shouldn’t. Usually this behavior is not a problem but sometimes what goes into their body doesn’t necessarily make its way out. If the ingested material causes a blockage to the passage of material in the stomach or intestines, then your pet may begin experiencing clinical signs such as vomiting, inappetence, abdominal discomfort, depression, or diarrhea. Sometimes you’ve witnessed your pet eating a foreign object so you have a strong suspicion that this may be the source of the problem. However, even then because the clinical signs of a small intestinal blockage are vague and are similar to those for numerous other problems, a thorough examination by a veterinarian is needed to diagnose the problem.

A thorough work-up usually includes at least obtaining baseline bloodwork and radiographs of the abdomen. Often additional diagnostics modalities are needed including abdominal ultrasound, endoscopy, contrast GI radiographs or even surgical exploration the abdomen to determine if an obstruction exists. Typically if a gastrointestinal obstruction is diagnosed then surgery is needed. Because GI obstructions can cause potentially life threatening complications, surgery is usually considered an emergency. Fortunately, in some very select situations, surgery is not needed but the possible need for surgery looms until the offending material passes.

So far this summer at CCVSS we have seen GI obstructions including: rocks (pictured), peach pits, coins, rugs, blankets, a cabbage palm seed, corn cob, intestinal tumors, and bones. This diverse list of possible obstructing material is just a small sample of the possible causes for a GI obstruction. Essentially anything your pet can chew or swallow has the potential to cause an obstruction. You don’t need to panic every time your pet eats a treat or chews on a toy, but if your pet has a tendency to chew or eat its toys or bedding, or likes to rummage through the trash or compost pile, then limiting your pet’s exposure to these materials may go a long way to prevent them from eating something that it shouldn’t. Furthermore, if your pet has a tendency to eat rocks, shells or twigs during walks then the use of a cage muzzle or basket muzzle may be an option to prevent ingesting undesired materials.

Not every animal experiencing clinical signs such as vomiting, inappetence, abdominal discomfort, depression, or diarrhea has a GI obstruction. Still, pets with these types of symptoms should always be examined and evaluated by veterinarian to determine what the cause is and what treatment options are needed to return your pet to good health.

The Stages of Grief

The Stages of Grief

By Anne Chauvet, DVM, DACVIM - Neurology

Our pets bring us an incredible amount of unconditional love. They also bring us a deep sense of pain and loss upon their passing. When we lose a loved one, even a pet, we begin to experience many feelings and sometimes we feel overwhelmed by them. We need a lot of explanations before the acceptance. The stages described below are always noted, at different times, for different durations. Healing is accomplished only by allowing the full range of the grief and being generous with ourselves when we enter each of these stages, sometimes more than once. It can take days, weeks, years. Forgiving the dead and ourselves is part of the healing. The acceptance is key.
Denial
This is the first stage – Shock hits us. We can’t (or don’t want to) believe what is happening. Nothing makes sense. We cope day by day. This is about survival. As we progress through this stage, we start asking questions. We become stronger. Emotions begin to surface.
Anger
Healing begins. Anger has no limits and it extends to everyone involved in our situation, including ourselves, and the ones who died. Sometimes, God is blamed too. This anger is fed by the pain, the abandonment and desertion we feel. We feel powerless and feel lost in a desert with no connections to anything. Being angry at someone or something is a way of feeling like we are regaining control of the situation. It is a powerful sign of our love for the departed.
Bargaining
Often, as we know death is impending, we bargain to spare our loved one. We bargain with God, destiny. After the loss, there is a sort of truce, a time when we feel like we should do all we can to change the odds for others. We are now is a mix of what ifs. Guilt!
Depression
Depression often comes after bargaining. We feel hopeless. Emptiness sets in. We lose some sense of purpose. It feels as if we will never get out of this stage.
Acceptance
Acceptance is sometimes thought as if everything is okay now. Not so! We do begin to accept the reality that our loved one is gone and the permanence of this sinks in. We live with the loss. We are aware of our feelings. We cope. We adjust. It is time to forgive the dead for leaving, the world for taking them away, all those involved for not being able to save this loved one, and ourselves altogether as we often continue to feel as we did not do enough, say enough, have enough. It is time to forgive and remember the good moments and the laughs. Be patient for it takes time. Be kind to yourself.
The Rainbow Bridge

WHY I BECAME A VETERINARIAN

WHY I BECAME A VETERINARIAN
by Anne Chauvet, DVM, DACVIM (Neurology)

What makes one choose to become a veterinarian? Yes, like everyone who loves animals, I read James Herriott. That was not it. My decision was made much earlier. I think it was because I love my brother so much.

When I was a little girl, in Africa, we lost our dog, Tobi, to a car accident. Late one night we were leaving the community center and my brother wanted the dog in the car. My mom said no. The dog ran home in the night and was hit. I watched my brother’s pain for days. He felt so guilty that he did not insist on the dog being in the car. Even the new pup we got from an African village, Mwendy, did not console him. All my efforts to keep this flea infested animal alive failed and two days later, Mwendy died. Even though he was older, I was about six and my brother ten, I became his big sister and ever since then, have wanted to do all I can to heal the pain that comes with the loss or hurt to our animals and children.

The road was long and hard. I was driven. After three continents, I was in Canada attending the veterinary school in Saskatoon. I almost failed in third year. Clinical work rescued me. I took an unpaid internship in Illinois thanks to my parents support. There, someone believed in me, Dr. Parker, a neurologist. I applied to only orthopedic residencies except for one: UC Davis neurology/neurosurgery, which is where I matched. After finishing my residency in California, I married another neurologist and followed him to Wisconsin where he and I ran the neurology service at the veterinary school. Then I made a life changing decision to live where I could do my job and be in the hot and humid weather that reminded me of Africa. So here I am doing exactly what I set out to do, relieve the physical pain of animals to alleviate the emotional pain of their humans. Even when I cannot, I feel blessed that I at least got the chance to try.

From top student in high school, scholarships in university, almost failing out of veterinary school, to unpaid internship, the best neurology residency at the time, I somehow found my way. Now I am discovering the joys and aches of a growing business and I welcome the challenge because it is all about the animals and their loving humans. Every day I strive to be the best I can be and hope that it helps a little. So follow your dream, it knows where you are going.

If they could only talk…Part 1 in a series

In a world filled with constant chatter, one of the more appealing attributes of our pets is their quiet companionship. Your Golden Retriever will never complain to you about the day he had at work. Your English bulldog won’t ask if you think she’s gained weight. This can be a silent solace from the daily grind, but to a veterinarian this may be a diagnostic challenge when presented with a sick dog or cat. Many times the only thing we know is that they don’t feel well – they aren’t eating, are less active, losing weight or maybe we’re only provided the oft-uttered “Doc, he’s just not himself….”

If only they could tell us what’s wrong, but then where’s the fun in that? If veterinarians wanted the easy life, they’d have just gone to medical school. Instead, we rely on several diagnostic tools to get the answers we’re looking for. Your veterinarian will likely start by asking you some questions in order to get a better understanding of your pet’s condition. Things that are important to mention include:

• previous illnesses,
• other pets at home that are, or are not, sick,
• introduction of a new pet to the house,
• any medications your pet is receiving or may have ingested (best to bring all your pet’s medications when making a trip to the vet’s office),
• how long you’ve noticed the symptoms
• changes in appetite, water intake,
• weight loss,
• behavior changes, and
• bathroom habits.

This is by no means an exhaustive list. The more information you can provide your vet, the better his or her chances of solving the problem. So what’s the take-home lesson here? Be prepared – by helping your veterinarian narrow the possibilities, you can help reduce the time it takes to make a diagnosis (and maybe save yourself a little money along the way).

But this is only the tip of the iceberg. Rarely can the entire answer be found in the history. In part 2 of “If they could only talk”, we’re going to begin our exam and reveal how a systematic evaluation of a patient contributes to making a diagnosis.

Mitch Potter, DVM, DACVECC